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I've decided to just do ONE blog for now......its over at blogger.   You can read it and see postings here
http://wwwoddollsdotnet.blogspot.com/  

Thanks all!

xoxoxoxoxo

 

--Debbie   Laughing

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Tuesday, March 4, 2008

How to Design Doll Clothes Patterns Using a Body Template
How to Design Doll Clothes Patterns Using a Body Template
Guest Author - Susan Kramer


Here is a method I use to create patterns using templates of the sections of the doll's body.

Take measurements
First take your doll's measurements - length of doll, circumference of neck, chest, waist, hips, length of torso, length and circumference of arms, legs and feet.

Then from these measurements you can draw a templates of each of the pieces of your doll's body as if it were squashed out flat to 2 dimensions, rather than the round dimension it really is. The pieces will most likely be much larger than you think they would be.

Trace the large template of each body part onto sturdy cardboard or a plastic sheet - something that will hold up over time.

Draw a picture
Now, draw a picture of what you want the finished outfit to look like. This gives me a basic idea of how to cut the pieces.

To use the body templates to create doll clothes patterns be sure to leave enough fullness for movement of the doll's arms and legs and don't forget to add the seam allowance you prefer.

Make a practice outfit
First make the pattern on some old sheeting and pin and baste all the pieces of the outfit together before cutting up your good fabric.

Skirts are the easiest to design. For a medium full gathered skirt double the waist width and for a very full skirt triple the skirt width.

With pants or slacks, be sure to allow enough fullness so doll can bend its knees and enough width at low edge to be able to slip over the doll's foot.

Template storage
Mark each peace of doll template with the kind of doll it is and the doll piece it is.

Put the collection of pieces for each separate doll in a large envelope and mark the front of the envelope in large letters with a magic marker. That's the only way I can keep track of my clothes pattern templates.

I store my doll body templates in separate envelopes from the outfits I design. I also take a photo of every outfit I design and keep it with the pattern.

I line up the envelopes on the bookshelf on end so I can easily look for and pull out the templates of choice.

How to Soft Sculpture Cloth or Fabric Dolls

How to Soft Sculpture Cloth or Fabric Dolls
Guest Author - Susan Kramer

Soft sculpturing your cloth or fabric doll bodies gives them more life and personality. I find it a fun and creative part of doll making!
18 inch cloth doll  arm ©  Susan Kramer
Looking at this photo of Amanda's left arm see the elbow joint on the left and the wrist at the right of picture. Instructions are below.

Sculpting is done on dolls that are already stuffed. I like to use fiberfill but old cut up nylons work well and both are washable fillings.

Wrists and Ankles

First thread a long sewing needle with a 12 inch (30cm) length of strong quilting or buttonhole thread.

Knot a few stitches on wrist back seam and insert needle through to front of wrist. Then take one stitch and pull slightly to form crease and carefully make a few knotted stitches to hold crease securely. Same with ankles.

Elbow and Knees

To determine the location for the joint, choose the midway point between shoulder and wrist to make the elbow crease. And for the leg, choose the midway point between the top of leg and top of foot.

Using strong thread make small stitches across joint. This is easier if you nudge stuffing away from the fold point before stitching across joint.



Sewing Feet on Cloth and Fabric Dolls
Guest Author - Susan Kramer

Sewing feet on cloth dolls looks like it could be tricky. But, I'll explain the technique I use through these photos and descriptions to help you along.
Sewing foot on doll body by Susan Kramer
The first photo is an upside down view of the foot in light blue fabric sewn onto the cloth doll leg, which is in a calico pattern.

The 2nd photo shows finished feet on my Anneke doll.

First cut out the feet and leg pieces from your doll body pattern. You'll need four foot pieces and two leg pieces.

Feet

With right sides together sew two foot pieces together beginning at the front top of ankle, down around the toes and soles of feet and halfway up between the heel and back of ankle, as in photo.

In the first photo the dark blue thread shows this. Repeat for the 2nd foot.

Attaching foot to leg

Each leg is one piece of fabric with the seam down the back to correspond to the open seam of the foot.

Line the lower edge of leg to the top edge of foot and pin in place all the way around. Then baste and sew in place so the seam is lined up evenly. In the first photo the white thread demonstrates this.
Sewing foot on doll body by Susan Kramer
Repeat for the other leg and foot.

Now line up the back of foot and leg and sew from the back of foot up the back of leg toward the thigh.

The 2nd photo shows completed feet and legs stuffed with polyester fiberfill. You can also use cut up nylon stockings, not packed too tightly.

These fabric dolls are fun to make and because they have several different pieces you can mix and match fabric to make every doll individual with their own personalities.

Have fun making your cloth dolls. Bring any doll making questions to the Doll Making forum linked at the foot of this page. We love to see photos of your finished dolls!



Painting Faces on Cloth Dolls

My favorite way to put faces on cloth dolls is with paint and brushes.
This is probably because my concentration
in college was painting, but don't let the idea scare you. You don't
have to be an artist to do this,it's easier than you may think and I will
walk you through it. I'll even give you a pattern to use. We will work with
one feature at a time to break it down into small, easily done parts.

The easiest paints to work with are acrylic craft paints in small
bottles. These are rather inexpensive and are available at any craft
supply store. Choose colors that are somewhat muted since facial features
tend to look best in these tones. For lips and noses choose dusty rose, peach
or mocha. For eyes, lashes and brows choose avocado green, taupe, raw umber,
ocher or burnt sienna as well as grayish blue or light teal. You will also
need black and white and very small brushes such as a size 00 liner brush
and a very small flat brush no wider than 1/4 inch.

I have drawn the features on a pattern piece for a cloth doll that I will
be writing about in the near future. Look at the placement of the features.
You may print out the pattern and transfer it to your fabric or use it
as a guide to draw the features onto your fabric, lightly, in pencil.
You can draw the features on the fabric before or after cutting your
pattern piece out or after the doll is assembled. I do it after assembly
because I draw it on freehand. If you are transferring my design onto
the fabric it will be easier before it's cut out. When painting on uncut
fabric be sure to put cardboard or waxed paper under the fabric to catch any
paint that seeps through.You must clean your brushes between colors with water, but don't thin the paint. Make sure you blot your brush on a cloth or paper towel to absorb most of the water.

Start with the irises (the colored part of the eye).Paint in the irises
first using your small, flat brush and your chosen eye color. While the
paint is still wet, using your smallest liner brush and white paint, put
in white lines and slightly blend them radiating from the center out all
the way around. Don't over blend, you don't want it to be a solid color.
Let it dry. Then put a small (less than 1/8 inch) black dot in the center
of each iris and let it dry. On the outside edge of the black dot put a tiny
white dot (1/16 inch)and let it dry. Make sure you put the white dot in the
same place on both eyes. Now outline the eyes and add the lashes and brows
using the small liner brush and paint in the same color as you want the doll's
hair to be.

To paint the nose and mouth paint the lines with the rose, peach or mocha
then fill in the lips with the small, flat brush. To give a three dimensional
look you can blend a few white lines into the bottom lip, radiating from the
center top out to the bottom and sides, using the same technique as on the eyes.


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Raggedy Andy Outfit for 15 inch to 18 inch Dolls - Sewing
Guest Author - Susan Kramer

This is an easy to make one-piece outfit for slim 15 inch to 18 inch dolls such as Raggedy Andy.

Raggedy Andy outfit designed by Susan Kramer

For pattern pieces click here. For finished outfit click here.

This pattern is my original design and may not be used commercially.

To sew shirt

Open out shirt front and back pieces and stitch shoulder seams of back and front together.

Cut a 2-inch slit in center back from neckline down for opening.

Turn up lower edge of sleeves one quarter inch and stitch.

Collar construction

You have 4 pieces of collar. Sew 2 together for each side of shirt. Clip curves and corners and turn right side out. The finished collars are at center front and back. On the back you will have one quarter inch of shirt free for later seam. Look at photos for help lining up collar pieces.

Baste collars to right side of material at neck edge.

Raggedy Andy outfit designed by Susan Kramer

Neck facing

All around outside edge turn in one quarter inch to wrong side and stitch.

Line up right sides of shirt and facing together. Facing goes over top collar, too.

Stitch pieces together around neck edge and down sides of back neck slit. This will be all the space the doll will have to get into the outfit. Clip curves and turn facing in and press.

Sew underarm-sleeve seams together.

Pants

Right sides together, sew back seams together. Sew front seams together.

Line up seams to form center front and back and then stitch along inside leg seam.

Turn up pants hem one quarter inch and press and stitch.

Joining shirt and pants

Line up right sides of shirt and pants at waist and sew together.

Turn outfit right side out, try on doll and turn up lower leg and sleeve hems to desired lengths and hand stitch.

Use a velcro dot to make back neckline fastener.

Use a length of one quarter inch wide satin or cross-grain ribbon for neck tie. I sewed this on securely.

Now, enjoy your new outfit!

Raggedy Ann and Raggedy Andy Doll Pattern Sources
Guest Author - Susan Kramer

Here are three pattern sources for Raggedy Ann and Raggedy Andy bodies and clothing, and a toddler costume that are available on the internet. I've included a description of the contents of each pattern envelope. Lower in the page I've listed the URL for clothes I've designed that will fit some of these dolls and other cloth dolls of similar body shape and size. Enjoy!

1. Simplicity 3945 - One-size Raggedy Ann and Andy Pattern with Four Seasonal Clothes Outfits
These are patterns with instructions to make the 15 inch Raggedy Ann and Raggedy Andy dolls, and four seasonal outfits for Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter. This is like getting several patterns in one with the different sets of clothes included. It is good to remember these are patterns for the one 15 inch size. The look of these dolls is the traditional look we've been used to seeing for so many years.
Simplicity 3945 - One-size Raggedy Ann and Andy Pattern with Four Seasonal Clothes Outfits

2. Simplicity 9447 - Raggedy Ann and Andy Doll and Clothing Pattern
This is a wonderful pattern. It contains both Raggedy Ann and Raggedy Andy in 15 inch, 26 inch and 36 inch sizes. Being a traditional Simplicity Brand Pattern, a very complete list of materials needed is provided on the back of the pattern envelope. Inside the envelope are instructions and tissue pattern pieces to make all the views on the pattern envelope.
Simplicity 9447 - Raggedy Ann and Andy Doll and Clothing Pattern.

3. Simplicity 9375AA - Raggedy Ann and Andy Costume Patterns for Toddlers
Now, this is not a doll costume, but perhaps your youngster would like to dress up like Raggedy Ann or Raggedy Andy. Here is a pattern in toddler sizes to sew. In keeping with all Simplicity Brand Patterns a very complete material list is included. And inside good instructions to sew, along with all the tissue pattern pieces. What fun for the kids to wear! When my kids were little they liked to dress up in costumes and present shows in the living room for us to view all year long. I kept all the Halloween costumes and dancer costumes, dog costumes (for people dressed as dogs) together in a box under one of the kid's bed. In wintertime, especially, dressing up and putting on plays was a fun activity.
Simplicity 9375AA - Raggedy Ann and Andy Costume Patterns for Toddlers.

Here is a listing of my free patterns to fit 15 inch to 18 inch Raggedy Ann and Raggedy Andy and cloth dolls of similar body type and size that I have designed for your private use, but not for commercial use.
Raggedy Ann and Raggedy Andy Subject Category








4:32 pm est 


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Here lies Vladimir Bones. While he may be a bit ghastly at first glance,

he's actually quite a pleasant little zombie. Don't be afraid to write in him!

Even though he has a big toothy grin, he doesn't bite.

He'll even let you use his tongue as a bookmark!

Vladimir has been brought to life by Debbie Kirkpatrick,

the lovely creator of the beautiful and strange Oddolls.

You can find her other wicked works at www.oddolls.net.

Vladimir is definitely one of a kind. We couldn't make him again if we tried.

He is the very first of our collaborations.

His skeleton was sewn together by myself using red waxed linen thread.

His covers are binder's board covered with handmade canvas bookcloth that

I created special for this project. His pages are recycled 70 lb. sketchbook paper.

His insides are a wonderful deep purple. He is coptic bound with a crazy neon

orange accented spine. Looking quite naked and plain, he then traveled all the

way to Utah so that Debbie could begin the transformation.

He is 6 in. x 4.75 in. (not including his funky mane) 10 signatures. 80 pages.

Debbie scuplted his face from paper clay and then added to his whimsical features

with acrylic paint. He has a soft hand-sewn tongue hiding away with the rest of his

smile inside his back cover. His hair is synthetic, but looks very real! The wart on

his nose even has hairs sticking out of it! He then made the journey back to

New Jersey and jumped right back out his box!

He's a sculpture, a painting, a book, and a best friend. From his nose to his teeth,

Vladimir is the most lovable zombie you'll ever meet, and he'd love to find an exciting new home.

Feel free to ask us any questions! He is signed by both of us.

For more Info about Vladimir Bones, Click Here...

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If your in town Oct 24th come check out my art that will

be on display for Morbid Curiousity.

Please email me for more info~!  

--Debbie Kirkpatrick

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